How to Pest-Proof Your House in 15 Minutes

Watching the leaves change is arguably the greatest pastime of fall. The worst? Dealing with unwanted house guests—rodents, cockroaches, stinkbugs, spiders, and other insects that are looking for a warm, cozy place to curl up for the winter. Opting for the chemical pest-control sprays at your local hardware store will only pollute your air, and could put you at risk for various types of cancer and nervous system problems. Also, they’re unnecessary. Most pests can be controlled with some do-it-yourself pest-control tricks that take less than 15 minutes and could actually save you money in the long run.
Got a few minutes? Here's what to do:
#1: Set out some sticky traps. It can take all of five minutes to set out glue traps, such as the Victor Poison-Free Insect Magnet.
What you'll trap: Anything that crawls—spiders, stinkbugs, roaches, ants, crickets, and silverfish.

ADVERTISEMENT

#2: Clean up your kitchen. Set aside 15 minutes of every day to wipe down your countertops with vinegar (vinegar removes odor trails left behind by foraging insects such as ants), put dirty dishes in your dishwasher, sweep your floors, mop up any spills, put away food, and empty your garbage, if needed. On grocery day, transfer any food that comes in a plastic bag from its original packaging to tightly sealed glass jars, particularly grains, rice, pet food, and nuts.
What you'll trap: Pests coming inside looking for a meal, from roaches and ants to rodents, as well as wasps and spiders, which feed on the insects coming indoors looking for food.
#3: Seal up their entry points. This project could take longer than 15 minutes, only because it involves a little bit of hunting. Insects and rodents will use even the tiniest hole to get inside your warm, cozy home, and a tube of low-VOC silicone caulk, which you can find at any hardware store, can be your best friend in sealing up those holes. Pay particular attention to window and door frames, the seal around your external dryer vent, anyplace where pipes enter or leave your home, and anywhere TV or cable wires come inside. Stuff some steel wool into larger holes, or cover them with wire mesh, before sealing them up. The good news? In sealing up all those pest entry points, you'll also be sealing up tiny air leaks that allow precious heat to escape your home during the winter.
What you’ll trap: Every pest that views your house as its new home.
#4: Install a door sweep. Another tool that keeps pests from entering your home and will save you energy this winter, a door sweep blocks the gap between the bottom of your door and the ground. You can buy one at any hardware store, and for a super-easy fix, buy the kind that simply sticks onto the door with an adhesive strip—no drilling needed.
What you’ll trap: As with caulk, every pest that views your house as its new home.
#5: Vacuum. It won’t be possible to seal up every hole or keep every critter from crawling indoors. That’s where a weekly vacuuming session comes in handy. You’ll suck up any crawling insects that make it indoors and trap them before they can get crushed and stink (stinkbugs) or leave stains (some varieties of ladybugs). Plus, if they’re gross—cockroaches—you can vacuum them up without having to squish anything.
What you’ll trap: All crawling insects.
#6: Clear the clutter. In addition to weekly vacuuming, spend 15 minutes a week clearing out piles of newspaper or junk mail and removing piles of clothing from your floors. All these things serve as nice, dark hiding places for insects.
What you’ll trap: Roaches, spiders, stinkbugs, and silverfish.
#7: Fix leaky faucets. Insects need water to survive, and the most common source for them is a drippy faucet. Fixing leaky faucets is a lot easier than you might think and, like sealing up cracks, it’s an insect-control measure that’s good for your wallet and for the planet.
What you’ll trap: Rodents, roaches, and spiders.

Need help http://myorlandohandyman.com

How to install motion detector lights

How motion detectors work

Motion detectors are small electronic eyes that detect infrared waves—heat waves that radiate from moving objects. When the detector senses an object moving across its field of view—especially warmer objects such as people, animals and cars—it electronically turns on the lights. The light stays on anywhere from 1 to 20 minutes, depending on how you preset the timer. Then the detector automatically shuts the light off unless it continues to sense movement. A photocell deactivates the light during daylight hours. Most motion detectors have a semicircular field of view of up to 240 degrees and a distance range, adjustable on most detectors, that extends to 70 ft. or more. The detector will react to the movement of your dog, an approaching person, a passing car or sometimes even wind-blown leaves.
Nuisance “trips,” such as blowing leaves or a passing car, can fool the detector and turn the lights on when you don’t want them. These can be annoying to both you and your neighbors, and in fact, some homeowners won’t install motion detector lights for this reason. However, you can solve most unwanted switching-on by adjusting the distance-range setting and by carefully aiming the sensor to limit its field of view. You can also narrow the field of view even more by applying tape to the sensor, as shown in Photo 7. If nuisance trips concern you, be sure to buy a light that has an adjustable distance/range setting, and an aimable detector unit as shown in Fig. A, Nos. 1 and 3.
Motion detectors allow you to operate the light in the conventional, manual way, usually by flipping a switch  off for a second, then back on. This allows you to keep the light on at night when you want to, even when there’s no motion. By double flipping a second time, you return to automatic.

Motion detector and light styles

Figure A: Motion detector and light styles

There are many motion detector and light styles to choose from.

Where to put them

For best effectiveness, position motion detector sensors to cover the walks leading to your front and back doors and the driveway (see lead illustration). That way the lights will come on when you come home at night. You can also use them to light up decks, patios and any potentially hazardous locations such as around stairways and swimming pools.
If improved security is a priority, position the lights to cover all the approaches to your house, including fence gates, the patio door, the darker areas of your yard, and around trees and bushes. Good lighting can’t guarantee security, of course, but it’s one of the best low-cost ways to get unwanted intruders to back away.
Ideally, it’s best to mount motion detector lights 6 to 10 ft. above the ground and position them so that most movement will occur across the sensitivity zone rather than directly toward the detector. Obviously you can’t always do that if you use existing light locations. One solution is to buy a remote motion sensor unit that you can mount some distance away from the light itself (Fig. A, #3). The wires connecting them to the light are low voltage and may not be dangerous, so you don’t have to enclose them in metal or plastic conduit.

How to install motion detector lights, step-by-step

1 of 7

Photo 1: Shut of the electricity

Turn off the power to the fixture at the main panel, then test the wires to make sure the current is off. Rub one lead of a voltage tester (from hardware stores or home centers) against the ground wire and rub the other lead first against the hot wire (black), then the neutral wire (white). If the tester lights up in either case, the power is still on. Shut off the correct circuit at the main panel.

« Previous Photo

Motion detector lights are easy to install, but each brand has a few different details, so read the instructions. You’ll find the basic information printed on the outside of the box. Read the box before you buy the unit so you know what you’re getting. You’ll find more detailed instructions inside the box.
Our step-by-step photos and tips from our experts provide a general guide of how to do the job. In most cases, you’ll simply replace an existing fixture with the new one, as our photos show. Make sure to turn off the power to the fixture at the main panel before removing it.
However, if you have to run a new electrical line and install a switch, the job can get much more complex. Outdoor electrical lines must be encased in approved conduit and weatherproof electrical boxes. If you’re not familiar with conduit or the rules for running new electrical circuits, call in a licensed electrician.
Working with old electrical boxes can be tricky too. Sometimes they don’t contain a ground wire (bare wire or one with green insulation) or other grounding means such as metal conduit. The National Electrical Code requires all electrical boxes and fixtures to be grounded. If you’re not sure yours is, check with your electrical inspector to determine if you have to run a new ground wire.
Additional installation tips:

• The cover of an outdoor electrical box must be waterproof. Seat the rubber gasket carefully (Photo 4). And if you are placing it against a rough surface, caulk it as well.
• Moisture can seep into the detector and light and ruin them. To prevent this, either locate the fixture under an eave or other protected area or buy one that has bulb seals  and angle the bulbs downward so water can’t run into the
• Heat from the light bulb itself can confuse the detector. Keep the bulb and detector as far apart as possible
• Adjust the field-of-view angle and set the distance range of your motion detector to avoid nuisance trips from normal passing traffic, animals, pools of water, air conditioners, heating vents and wind-blown trees and shrubs

Get an electrical permit from your local department of inspections. Check for special local rules and have your work inspected when finished.
CAUTION:Don’t let your ladder or your body touch lethal overhead power lines while you’re working.
CAUTION: Aluminum wiring requires special handling. If you have aluminum wiring, call in a licensed pro who’s certified to work with it. This wiring is dull gray, not the dull orange that’s characteristic of copper.

Size requirements of electrical boxes

You also need to check out the size of your electrical box. A shallow box like the one shown in Photo 1 no longer meets code requirements, and we had to replace it with a larger box, shown in Photos 2 and 3.
The computation table gives the method for calculating minimum box-size requirements. To do the calculation, count the number of wires coming into the box. However, some other things besides wires are counted as “wires” for computation purposes. For example, all the cable clamps used count for one wire, and we recommend always counting the fixture as two wires. Then multiply this total wire number by 2 cu. in. for 14-gauge wire (or 2.25 cu. in. for 12-gauge wire, even if there’s just one of the heavier wires in the box).
The computation method given here sometimes overestimates the minimum box size required by code, but it simplifies the calculation.Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

• 4-in-1 screwdriver
• Wire stripper/cutter

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

Motion detector light
Electrical box, remodeling type
Wire connectors
Clear silicone caulk
Electricians tape, plastic

Need help http://myorlandohandyman.com

Garage Safety and Storage Tips

For many Americans, garages are the most well worn entryway to their homes.  Besides the daily family traffic, the garage is also a place where we risk safety by mixing things together for storage that would never be found in the same place anywhere else in our home.  Toys and toxins are a dangerous combination but check any garage and you are likely to see just that:  toys, bikes, and balls stored within inches of insecticides, turpentine and gasoline.
It should be no surprise, then, that these same spaces can be the source of many injuries.  Here are the main sources of garage dangers and what you need to know to make your garage safe:
DANGEROUS DOORS - The overhead door is most likely the largest and heaviest door in your home.  It is also the cause of three types of injuries:

• Crushing - According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, 4 children a year are crushed by garage doors.  These doors, powered by automatic openers, come down and simply don't stop.  While garage door openers have been required to have automatic reversing mechanisms since 1982, these mechanisms can wear out or fail if not properly maintained.  To be safe, test your door's ability to reverse by placing a 2x4 under the door.  When the door hits the wood, it should reverse and go back up.  If it doesn't, replace it.  Also, if your opener is more than 5 years old, it is also a good idea to replace it.  Garage door openers are an important piece of safety equipment and it's just not worth taking a chance with an old one.
• Pinching - Most garage doors are made of 4-large, horizontal, panels on hinges.  Unfortunately, these door sections can pinch children's fingers and cause severe injuries.  The solution is a pinch-free door design, which effectively pushes a child's fingers out of the way as the door closes.
• Flying Springs - Most garage doors are powered by very large, heavy, springs that provide the extra strength to lift the door.  The problem is that eventually, these springs WILL break.  When this happens, they'll fly off the door and across the room, potentially injuring anyone in their path.  The solution is a simple do-it-yourself safety trick.  When the door is in the closed position, thread a wire (picture hanging wire works well) inside the extended spring and secure it to the eyelet at each end.  With the wire in place, a broken spring will have no where to fly except safely back on the wire itself.

UNSAFE STORAGE - Playthings and poisons are a bad combination.  To keep your family safe, be sure to store dangerous chemicals out of the reach of children, or better yet, in a locked cabinet.  Also, be sure to keep chemicals in their original container with the labels in good condition.  Never purchase chemicals in quantities more than you will use in a reasonable period of time.  While it might make sense to buy a case of canned vegetables at the local supermarket warehouse, having to store leftovers from a 6-pack of ant poison isn't worth the risk.
Storing combustibles like gasoline, propane and kerosene is also something that needs careful planning.  These fuels must be stored in containers designed especially for them.  Gasoline cans, for example, have special vents to avoid the dangerous build up of combustible fumes.  Storing gas in anything else is an explosion waiting to happen.
Finally, common, everyday products like ladders and lawn tools can be unsafe if not stored correctly.  Ladders, for example should always be stored in a horizontal position so that children can not climb on them and tumble over.  Rakes, hedge trimmers and shovels left on the garage floor or leaning against a wall can easily fall under foot and cause injuries.  To be safe, use wall space and get as many of your tools off the floor as possible.
ELECTRICAL SAFETY - Electricity and water don't mix but this dangerous combination can easily happen in a garage.  To be safe, all garage circuits should be protected with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter).  While regular circuit breakers are designed to prevent wires from overheating and causing a fire, a GFCI breaker is specifically designed to prevent shocks. A GFCI can be installed at an outlet or in the main circuit breaker panel and works to prevent a shock.
Secondly, most garages are not properly lit.  Fluorescent lamps tend to dim in colder weather and most garages simply don't have enough fixtures to help you see your way clear of storage and other hazards.  To avoid trouble, make sure that all garage outlets are protected by GFCI's and add additional lights as needed to see your way to safety.
SAFE STRUCTURES - Building codes require that garages be constructed to protect the rest of the home from fire damage should they become engaged in flame.  For the most part this is accomplished by what is known as the fire wall, a wall-assembly constructed to keep fire at bay by the use of fire resistant drywall and other similar tactics.  Unfortunately, older homes may not have a firewall and even modern homes may have had their firewalls rendered ineffective.  For example, in an effort to make use of every available space, many families install an attic stairs in the ceiling of the garage.  Unfortunately, doing so creates a hole in the fire wall and a short cut for fire to take out your entire home.  To ensure safety, make sure all walls and ceilings between your garage and your house are constructed with at least 5/8ths inch thick drywall and that any attic stairs are covered with sheet metal for fire resistance.
Finally, make sure your garage has a fire extinguisher rated A-B-C.   This means the extinguisher can handle all types of fires, including fires from wood and paper, electrical and gasoline or grease.
GREASY RAGS MUST GO - Old towels or t-shirts might make convenient rags to have in a garage, but when they become soiled with grease, oil, gasoline or any other flammable materials, they must be tossed.  These rags are nothing more than kindling that, with the right ignition source, can become the fireball that destroys your house.
Never try and wash rags like these.  The petroleum will leach into your washing machine and leave your next load of laundry smelling like yesterday's lawn mowing session.  Also, placing any rag that has contained a flammable substance into a hot dryer is extremely dangerous. Rags are cheap.  Always toss them and find new ones for your next project.
Garage safety is not hard to achieve.  The key is to get storage organized so that unsafe situations never have the chance to develop. For help with your projects

Choosing the Right Door Knob and Lockset

Introduction
Selecting the correct door knob and lock-set for your home is a decision you’ll have to make when replacing, installing new or upgrading your door hardware. You’ll be choosing the type of doorknob style you want and the appropriate lock-set mechanism for your needs. The type of lock-set you select will be based on the security function you want the door hardware to perform. The Doorknob
Although you may expect the doorknob to be a round or square knob, it may not be a knob at all. It may be a “lever handle” or it may be a “handle set” which is a combination thumb latch / handle used on exterior entry doors. Lever handles are easier to grab than doorknobs and are an approved operating device meeting handicap ADA Barrier Free / Accessible Design requirements. Doorknobs are not approved for this use because they require tight grasping, tight pinching or twisting of the wrist to operate. Although ADA compliance is required in commercial construction and not necessarily required in your home, these Accessible Design standards are still useful if a wheelchair bound person lives in or visits your home.
In any case, lever handles make it easier to open a door, especially for folks with arthritis. Personally I like the looks of lever handle door hardware and have lever handles in my home just for the style and convenience of use. I love them.
Also worth noting are the different ways the doorknob attach to the lock-set. On older style door hardware the doorknob is attached using an exposed set-screw that fastens the knob to a square threaded spindle. When turned, the square spindle rotated and operated the latch mechanism. The downside to this style of attachment (besides the unsightly set-screw) is that the set-screw style doorknob often becomes loose and may end up spinning in your hand.
The currently popular method of attaching a doorknob to the lock-set mechanism uses no screw at all, but rather a concealed device called a detent. This type of ”no-screw” doorknob is easily removed using a special technique.
The Lock-set
There are an infinite variety of finishes and designs of lock-sets but they all come down to four basic types:

• Passage Lock-set (no lock)
  This type is used for general passage room access doors, closets, hallways. Neither knob is lockable and both turn freely.
• Privacy Lock-set (key-less lock mechanism)
  This type of lock-set is used for access to rooms that need privacy such as some bedrooms and bathrooms. The privacy side is lockable by a turn button that turns a lock mechanism. There is a small hole in the knob on the other side of the lock-set that allows use of a small emergency key to open the door if necessary.
• Keyed Entrance Lock-set (keyed locking mechanism)
  This type of lock-set is lockable on both sides and can be used with interior or exterior applications. It may be locked or unlocked by using a key on the outside or from the inside by using the turn button.
• Dummy (non-functional)
  This last type is essentially just a handle and does not turn or activate any type of locking or latching mechanism.

So decide on the type of door knob style that best meets your design needs and then select your lock-set type based on the security function you want the door hardware to perform. After that its just a matter of selecting the finish of your new door hardware and your are all set

Need More Help?

How to Install and Mount A Bathroom Faucet and Drain Assembly

Step 1: Remove Old Faucet and Drain Assembly

It's a good idea to replace the drain when you replace a faucet. If you do replace the drain, also consider replacing the P-trap and drain tailpiece at this time.
In our project, we removed a bathroom faucet and replaced it with a new pop-up drain and faucet.

Step 2: Install the Faucet

Depending on the type of faucet you install, a 4" faucet with an escutcheon plate or an 8" faucet without an escutcheon, follow these specific instructions.
Small faucet: Place plumber's tape or joint compound on the threads of the faucet stems. If the faucet includes a rubber gasket, install it on the base of the faucet before inserting the faucet stems in the appropriate holes in the sink. If your faucet doesn't include a gasket, run a line of caulk under the faucet before installing it so it squeezes out a bit as you put the faucet in place. Use a wet rag to wipe up excess caulk.
Secure the nuts under the faucet that hold it to the sink, making sure the plate and faucet stem is properly aligned. Tighten the nuts by hand first before giving them another quarter-turn with a wrench.
Connect the water supply lines to the faucet stems. Apply plumber's tape to the shutoff valve threads. Tighten the coupling nuts to the faucet supply stems, taking care not to over tighten.
Large faucet: Wrap plumber's tape around the threads of the hoses leading from the valves to the spout. Attach the hose to the end of the valve assembly.
Thread the valve through the appropriate hole and firmly tighten the nut underneath the sink. Caulk around the base of the spout and thread the connections through the center hole. Attach the hoses to the spout from underneath and tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench.
Attach the water supply lines. You may need to reduce the length of the lines after you attach the sink to the wall.
Dry-fit the sink and mark the mounting holes underneath the sink. Remove the sink and drill the mounting holes.
Connect the water supply lines to the shutoff valves.
Connect the drain assembly to the drain in the wall. You may want to use a flexible adapter. Tighten the connections with a wrench.

Courtesy of James Calloway

Step 3: Complete the Faucet and Fixture Installation

Slowly turn on the water to bleed off any air and check for leaks.
In our project, we installed a pedestal underneath the sink. In the case of a pedestal sink, make the mounting holes in the floor and remove the pedestal. Drill the mounting holes and insert the anchors. Replace the pedestal and secure it with lag screws. Secure the back of the sink with lag screws.
Attach faucet knobs if necessary. If not already installed, attach the stopper assembly in the drain hole. Work the pop-up rod to make sure it works properly.
Caulk any gaps between the wall and sink, forcing the caulk as deeply as possible into the gaps. Use a caulk that matches the color of the sink as closely as possible. Use a wet rag to wipe away excess caulk.

Step 4: Install the Drain Assembly

Apply a thick bead of plumber's putty to the underside of the new drain flange and press it into the drain hole. Insert the drain housing through the drain hole from underneath the sink (Image 1).
Screw the drain housing tightly to the drain flange, making sure there's a washer between the nut and the rubber gasket on the flange (Image 2).
Once the flange and body are joined, tighten the nut on the body until the gasket is tight against the underside of the sink.
Note: The fitting for the pop-up control arm should face the rear of the sink after you finish tightening.
Drop the pop-up drain into place, keeping the hole for the control pin toward the rear of the sink. Insert the plastic washer and ball socket for the drain pop-up and screw these into place.
Wrap plumber's tape (Teflon tape) around the drain tailpiece to tighten the connection and screw it into place.
Mount the faucet onto the sink. Remember to use care not to over-tighten any of the hardware around a breakable sink vessel or bowl.

 Need help http://myorlandohandyman.com

What kinds of jobs can a handyman perform?

Some common jobs that a handyman might be hired for would include drywall repairs, paint touchup, replacing a bathroom vanity, replacing damaged boards in hardwood flooring, fixing a dripping faucet, replacing damaged pieces of siding, installing a shower door, or fixing a door that does not latch properly.

Many handyman services are willing to perform almost any task that you will pay them for. Some less common jobs that handyman services may perform include gardening or landscaping, assembling furniture or tool shed kits, changing hard to reach light bulbs, setting up Christmas decorations, hanging picture frames, or even house sitting for a family while they are on vacation. Some handyman services are willing to perform larger tasks such as building a deck, building a new addition, building a garage, or building a fence. Others like to stick to the small jobs like fixing a small hole in drywall, replacing screws in a door hinge, cleaning a clogged downspout, or replacing a piece of trim that has come loose. Some have more experience in certain trades than others. For example, one handyman might have extensive experience in finish carpentry while another worked for many years installing vinyl floors.

 In some areas handyman services are not allowed to perform certain tasks such as electrical or plumbing. Some handyman services can subcontract these tasks out but often the customer will be responsible for hiring a licensed professional to perform these tasks. For example, if a handyman service were doing a bathroom remodel they might do everything necessary to get the job ready for plumbing. The customer would be responsible for hiring a plumber to take care of all the plumbing needed. Then the handyman service would return and finish the job. I have been told that a good handyman is worth their weight in gold (I weigh about 230 pounds if any one wants to send me that check). A good handyman has lots of experience and can do just about anything. If a good handyman comes across a job that they have not done before, they will learn how to do it before they try to do it on your house. A good handyman also can come up with creative solutions to problems to help keep your costs down. A good handyman should have an understanding of building practices that would have been used when older houses were built as well as building practices used today. reposted article by Eli Larreau

How to Replace a Light Fixture With a Ceiling Fan

Save heating and cooling costs by replacing an existing light fixture with an energy-efficient fan/light combination.

• Step 1: Determine the Right-Size Fan
• Step 2: Remove the Existing Light Fixture
• Step 3: Install a Support Brace
• Step 4: Install the Fan Mounting Bracket
• Step 5: Connect the Fan Motor Wiring
• Step 6: Attach the Fan Blades
• Step 7: Attach the Light Fixture
• Step 8: Install the Wall Control Switch

Step 1: Determine the Right-Size Fan 

The larger the room, the bigger the fan. Measure the longest wall in the room. If it is less than 12 feet, you'll need a fan that is 36-inches in diameter. If the longest wall is 12 to 15 feet, get a 42-inch fan. Anything over 15 feet, you'll need a 52-inch fan.

Step 2: Remove the Existing Light Fixture

Replacing a room’s chandelier or ceiling fixture with a ceiling fan that includes its own light fixture is an easy DIY project for anyone comfortable with basic electrical improvements. If the room has no existing fixture, this project is more difficult and entails cutting through the ceiling and installing new wiring and a switch.
To replace an existing fixture, first turn off electricity at the home’s main electrical panel to the circuit that powers the light and its switch. Cover the switch with tape to make sure it doesn't get turned back on while you are working (Image 1). Use a circuit tester to ensure that the power is off before you touch any of the electrical wiring.
Disconnect the fixture wires and remove the central mounting nut and any screws that hold the old fixture in place. With the fixture out of the way, try to determine whether the electrical box is securely fastened to a ceiling joist or support bracket. Fans can weigh up to 50 pounds and require a sturdy mount. If your ceiling box is enclosed by drywall or other material, you may need to access the joists from above, such as through the attic, to inspect it and attach a support brace if needed. Alternative installation methods are described below.

• • 
    
    
  • 
    
    

If you have access from above, you can make and install your own support brace using a length of 2x4 lumber nailed to the ceiling joists on both sides of the box location (Image 2). Position the brace directly above the ceiling box. From below, use wood screws to attach the ceiling box securely to the brace.
If you do not have access to work above the ceiling, you can install an expanding metal brace from below to support the ceiling box and fan. First, remove the existing box, then insert the brace up through the hole and secure it in position by ratcheting the mechanism into place. As the ratchet is turned from below, arms on the brace extend until they contact the ceiling joists on both sides of the hole (Image 3 demonstration). The spikes on the arms anchor securely into the wood. Some braces are available with a ceiling box attached, or you can attach the existing ceiling box to the brace.
This method also may be used to mount a fan on a ceiling where no electrical fixture was previously installed. After a hole is cut in the ceiling, electrical wiring is routed to the hole from a convenient nearby junction box, then the brace and a new ceiling box are installed as described above.

• • 
    
    
  • 
    
    
  • 
    
    

Step 4: Install the Fan Mounting Bracket

Most ceiling fans come with a mounting bracket; if yours does not, you can buy a mounting kit separately. Attach this bracket to the ceiling box following the manufacturer’s instructions. This bracket typically has a circular receptacle for a ball mount installed on the fan motor or extension rod.
Because mounting a fan too close to the ceiling restricts air circulation, an extension rod of any length is generally recommended. If you use an extension rod to suspend the fan, temporarily tape the ends of the fan motor wiring together and pull the wiring through the rod. Attach the rod to the fan motor, and secure the ball mount at the upper end of the rod.

• • 
    
    
  • 
    
    

Step 5: Connect the Fan Motor Wiring

Mount the fan motor to the ceiling bracket by inserting the swivel ball into the bracket.
Attach the fan motor wires to the house wiring. Typically, this requires connecting black to black (“hot”) wires and white to white (“neutral”) wires. If the fan has a bare copper or green insulated wire, attach this to the existing ground wire and connect both to the metal electrical box. Additional wires or a receiving unit may be included for an optional remote control operator, which allows you to control the fan and light without a switch or pull-chain. Follow the manufacturer’s wiring instructions carefully. Use wire nuts to secure all connections.

• • 
    
    
  • 
    
    

Step 6: Attach the Fan Blades

Install the fan canopy that covers the ceiling box and mounting bracket.
Attach a blade mounting bracket to each fan blade and then attach these brackets to the rotating bezel below the fan motor. Be sure all of the mounting screws are tight; loose blades will cause the fan to wobble when operating.

• • 
     
  •  
  • 
  • 
    
    

Step 7: Attach the Light Fixture

If your fan includes a light fixture, assemble the fixture and switch housing (if provided), then attach the fixture to the fan motor assembly. Connect the wiring according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Install the glass dome, or decorative light shades and bulbs.

Step 8: Install the Wall Control Switch

Most fans are controlled by a rheostat-type wall switch that allows for basic on/off and fan speed operation. In order to reverse the direction of the fan, to circulate warmer air near the ceiling during winter months, homeowners have to manually operate a reversing switch located on the fan housing.
Some fans today include “smart” electronics that expand the various functions that can be controlled from a single switch, such as forward/reverse and light dimming, without requiring replacement or upgrading of the home’s existing wiring.
Before you install a new wall switch for your unit, recheck the existing switch wiring with a circuit tester to ensure the power is off. Install the fan control switch according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Turn the power back on, and test the fan and light operation in all operating modes.



Story is complements of HGTV read more at HGTV

http://orlandoshandyman.com